The Traditional Meal

I had another opportunity to cook today, not just my usual Tuesday, and even with the use of one and a half arms, as my right one is still a bit useless, I was able to get together a great meal, full of nostalgia for me.


I wanted to make a traditional Jewish meal because I miss my grandmother’s home cooking, and I like to recreate some favorites. As a matter of fact, both of these were never made by either my mother or my grandmother, but traditional they are.

When I grew up, goin g out to dinner usually meant going to a deli. We had a favorite deli nearby, on Garrison Boulevard in Baltimore, called Paul’s. On Friday evening we often would go there as a family, my parents and I, and even later on I would go with my parents and my wife and kids. One thing I loved that they had on the menu was meat blintzes with mushroom gravy, something I have been thinking about for the last 40 years or so and thought this would be a good time to make them.

Along with that I made kasha varnishkes, another traditional dish made of bowtie pasta and buckwheat.

I searched through lots of recipes and made up with this one and it was a winner.

Meat Blintzes

Filling:

1 pound lean ground beef (I used kosher beef because I was being traditional)

1 sweet onion, mostly (3/4) grated and some (1/4) chopped bits

1 carrot, grated

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon flour

½ cup water

In a large frying pan cook the meat along with the onions, carrots, Worcestershire, spices, flour and the water for at least ten to fifteen minutes on medium high, until it’s cooked through. Cook covered for a few more minutes on a lower heat. Let sit covered for 20 minutes. Uncover and blend in a beaten egg to the mixture. Turn off the heat, cover and let it rest for five more minutes.

Blintze Batter (batter recipe from Jennie Grossinger’s cook book)

3 eggs

1 cup milk or water

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¾ cup flour

Butter or oil for frying

Beat the eggs, milk, salt and oil together. Stir in the flour. Heat a 6” small fry pan and add a little oil or butter. Pour about 4 tablespoons of the mixture into the hot pan, tilting the pan to coat the bottom and a bit of the sides. Use enough batter to make a thin pancake. Let the bottom brown and turn it out, bottom side (brown) up onto a paper towel. Make all the pancakes. This will make about 8-10.

Spread a heaping tablespoon or more of filling over the top of the blintz, and turn and roll up like a jelly roll, browned side on the inside.

You can pan fry them at this point or bake in a hot oven at 425 degrees F for about 10-15 minutes until brown. You can sprinkle a bit of paprika on them if you bake to insure browning.

The blintze batter is a crepe recipe and can be used for fruit and cheese blintzes as well.


Kasha Varnishkes

In 1925 Wolff Brothers of Paterson, New Jersey, published a Yiddish English cook book with recipes culled from a kasha cooking contest run in all the Jewish newspapers throughout the country. "Recipes of thousands of Jewish dishes were sent us," they wrote modestly, "but we selected only the very best among them and these are listed here." The recipes included buckwheat blintzes, vegetarian buckwheat cutlets, and "a tasteful grits soup" made from their Health Food (merely unroasted buckwheat groats), green peas, and potatoes. The varnishke recipe was basically a kreplach-type noodle stuffed with kasha, buckwheat groats, and gribenes.

Packaged bow-tie noodles,large and small, quickly replaced the flat homemade egg noodles in the American version of kasha varnishkes. The trick to a good kasha varnishke is to toast the whole-grain buckwheat groat well over a high heat for 2 to 4 minutes until you start smelling the aroma of the kasha. This will seal the groats so that there is a nutty, crunchy taste to them, a good foil to the soft taste of the noodles. You can add fresh parsley and sometimes coriander. Although traditionalists use bow-tie noodles for this, try rigatoni, shells, or any other kind of noodle you like.

Wolff Brother’s Recipe (My version)

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 to 3 tablespoons margarine or oil

• 1 large egg, slightly beaten

• 1 cup medium or coarse kasha

• 2 cups water or bouillon

• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

• 3/4 pound large or small bow tie-shaped noodles

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander (optional)

1. Sauté the onions in 2 tablespoons of the margarine or oil in a heavy frying pan with a cover until golden. Remove to a plate.

2. Beat the egg in a small mixing bowl and stir in the kasha. Mix, making sure all the grains are coated. Put the kasha in the same frying pan, set over a high heat. Flatten, stir, and break up the egg-coated kasha with a fork or wooden spoon for 2 to 4 minutes or until the egg has dried on the kasha and the kernels brown and mostly separate.

3. Add the water or bouillon, salt, and pepper to the frying pan and bring to a boil. (I added a few sliced mushrooms just because I had them around.) Add the onions, cover tightly, and cook over low heat, steaming the kasha for 10 minutes. Remove the cover, stir, and quickly check to see if the kernels are tender and the liquid has been absorbed. If not, cover and continue steaming for 3 to 5 minutes more.

4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the bow-tie noodles according to the directions on the package. Drain.

5. When the kasha is ready, combine with the noodles. Adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with the parsley and coriander. If desired, add a bit more margarine or oil.

I will admit that I used two packages of prepared brown gravy mix, two cups of water and added that to a package of sliced mushrooms that I had sautéed.

We served some veggies on the side and this made quite a feast! Definitely give this one a try!